Note:
For the cut-the-crap/get-to-the-point would-be trekkers, please check
out the tips and tricks section at the end of the post!
Kashmir Great Lakes
- Date: July 11 to 18, 2014, (8 days)
- Maximum Altitude 13,750 feet, 4200 meters
- Trek Grade: Medium Difficult
- Adventure Group: IndiaHikes
- Trek Leaders - Riyaz Bhai (Local Guide), Vivian Sebastian (Trek Leader, IH), Revant (Asst. TL)
So an ideal trek document
should, as IndiaHikes would suggest, begin with Day 1, proceed to Day 7,
state altitude, temperature (both inside and outside the tent), how informed
the guide was (no, not how handsome he was), useful information like watering
holes, preferably avoid first person, include a dash of folklore, distance between camps, and a whole bunch of mathematical
and factual data that my mind isn’t too
equipped to process, especially considering the fact that I forgot to carry a
book and a pen (Yeah Anand, along with a bunch of other useful stuff like my
plate, my glass, my spoon, but of course remembering my makeup kit, adding
enough weight, as per my trek mates to require offloading. But at least I got to be great friends with
the kitchen folk!).
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The Wolf Pack! Adarsh, Adirath, Arastu, Amel, Anand, Amit, Akshay, Ajit, Ambuj, Pooja, Divya, Heramb, Vijay, Yashas, Nitesh, Shrey, Arvind, Meghna (Not in order of photograph :-). That's me in the right corner with a pink cap and the giga gloves) |
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Oxymeter blues,
One of the temperatures that did
concern me quite a bit though, was that of various parts of my body, in no particular
order of interest. For instance my
finger (perverts, what were you expecting?).
I remember the incessant hooting and laughter of the trekkers as trek
lead Vivian screamed a jovial “DESCENT” as the oxymeter refused to register my
finger for lack of minimum body temperature….every single day! And of course, when it did register, my pulse
was on a race to the finish while my oxygen slogged laboriously at the
end. Hmmmm, sweet memories.
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The Red King |
Coming back to my lack of
(mental) equipment for a trek document, one of the frequent sights I cherished
on the trek was fellow trekker Ambuj’s dedication to his miniscule notebook and pen, at which he labored
daily with facts and figures he recorded from his pedometer, with the most adorable of
expressions. Forgive my tendency to
borrow from childhood tales, but the size discrepancy triggered mental
associations of the tiny Red King of Alice in wonderland, the one stuck with
the hugely oversized memorandum book and gigantic pencil, puzzling at his looking-glass
book of mirror words.
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Ambuj |
(To quote the red queen: “You will forget it, my dear, if
you don’t make a memorandum of it”). Now
that’s where you can get your real trek document.
And then there was Aristo,
our dear video blogger, who took great pains to interview the sheep and the
wild dogs that we met on trail with equal vigor as he did us humans. Now here’s a guy that knows to laugh at
himself and make the world laugh with him. Fashion highlight of the trip was definitely his purple (not pink, please note) raincoat!
Trekkers high
(as opposed to runners high), is definitely a term Arvind and I should get
credit for coining. It is a high
experienced after a human body pushes itself at an ascent so strenuous that after a certain threshold, beta endorphins are released to mitigate
the pain resulting in a kind of euphoria.
There were times that I was too exhausted to even cry, as my mind,
reduced to subconscious animal-like abilities, watched through a narrow tunnel,
Arvind and Yashes striding forward relentlessly. At the peak, you collapse, and voices tell
you to take in the view, but all you take in is air first and water next, until
your mind and vision clears, your lungs expand, and the endorphins hit you along with
the Himalayan breeze, and then you take in the cursed beauty that is Kashmir,
this seductress, this temptress that can rip your heart apart and reduce you to
helpless tears as you behold her arrogant allure. No Malana cream needed there.
Romance (Out of question), I present to you one important learning, people: I
know all that great romantic advice about taking your partner along with you on
a trek before getting married and stuff, yeah, good, no argument there. But no better way to meet a bunch of crazy
whackos on a trek than being single and ready to mingle (yes, even the married
folks like yours truly). If you wanna
bring friends, bring one. Yes, add that
to the list of things to get: one friend, not any more, not any less, and
preferably one with which you don’t generally share the bed (you know what I
mean). And romantic as Kashmir was, tents
are demarcated by gender, so unless you care to recreate youthful thrills of stealing
in to your wife’s or girlfriend’s tent while her roomie snores, holding your
beloved’s hand or luggage is the only action you’re getting!
Toilet humor,
and the shamelessness with which we indulged in it regardless of gender was
something I would say was unique to this wild trek experience. Comments like, “I love it when people use baby wipes, it smells so good”, shared tips
on best nature call spots, how to moon the moon, army spotlights on you while
you take an open-air leak, “you know
what, ditch that bathroom tent, nothing like doing your morning business facing
the majesty of nature”, “don’t take
photographs of the bathroom tent, the sun is high and someone might be
inside”. But of course,
I mustn’t be play a spoiler and reveal toilet facility details…..some
things must stay a pleasant surprise.
But let me sum up by mentioning my all-time favorite delivered by Delhi
boys Adirath/Nitesh after trek completion, finally in the midst of city comforts, that weirdly summed up the entire trek experience for me
(while it had me rolling with laughter)….”Nitesh….tumko
western toilet main chill karna hain kyaa?!”
Memories of a Shower, Let me take this moment to note that I did make the Sonmargh campsite
local news on the very first day by taking a shower in the nearby Sindh stream,
and the sight of my return to camp with a towel wrapped mallu style supposedly generated great interest along with snide Lyril Ad comments,
resulting in all subsequent conversation starters with perfect strangers
beginning with “so you're the one who took the shower, yes yes, I heard about
that”. Needless to say, I was given a
severe tongue lashing with threats of descent if I ever made further contact
with what was supposedly freshly melted ice.
Anti-bacterial powder showers was the hygiene tip of the day.
Riyaz Bhai, Multi-talented, smooth-talking Kashmiri guide, whose ideas of trek leadership can definitely stir up a storm. Giving out
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Riyaz Bhai, our local guide, stuck with my makeshift daypack |
accurate trail details supposedly took the fun out of leading a trek, and nothing gives you the kicks as a herd of city-bred trekkers with absolutely no idea. But of course, he would entertain you with his antics on the way, be it boot skiing, butt skiing, slippery-rock skipping or simply keeping his boots and sole track pants spick and span while ours returned splattered everyday in designer dirt patterns. Add a bunch of hilarious trek stories featuring army men to nefarious elements to idiotic trekkers, and you have enough to keep you 'rofl'ing till the end. Check out his boot skiing show-off session:
Mountain Passes
Wikipedia: A mountain pass is a route
through a mountain range or over a ridge. If following
the lowest possible route, a pass is locally the highest point on that route.
Since many of the world's mountain ranges have presented formidable barriers to
travel, passes have been important since before recorded
history, and have played a key role in trade, war, and migration.
With KGL, we encountered
three passes:
Nichnai Pass, (the
pass I nearly fainted with exhaustion and cried for my mommy, with Riyaz
Bhai pulling me up like a useless train bogey for around 200 meters or so), was
day 2 and the last time we received telephone connectivity.
Gadsar Pass, a 45 minute steep climb from
Kishansar lake, is another endorphin high point, and the highest point of the
trek at 13,750 feet. As it was Day 5, I
think I’d outgrown crying. Here you
open your eyes to a combined view of Kishan and Vishnu sars on one side, and a snow trail on the other.
Zach Pass,
does not include photographs, as I was undergoing self-diagnosed feet
hypothermia, triggered by wet socks. For
some reason, my brain is unaware of the fact that wet clothing (it had just
rained) makes the world colder than it actually is.
As I could hardly hold a dried puri, turning on the mobile camera was
out of question.
Your Very First Lake, Viewing your first lake at KGL can be personally quite overwhelming. The tension is mounting, you've heard much about it, people tell you to close your eyes until you reach the first vantage point, you aren't really sure what's really happening or where what is located, and voila....you take in your first view with a sharp intake of breath. Nothing prepares you for that! Of course, in the due course of the trek, you see great many lakes, sometimes two at a time, sometimes at a distance, sometimes nameless lakes, you try different (photo) angles, test the waters, take a quick dip when no one is watching, spend hours just watching the water ripple through, taking in the different sounds. But your first lake... is always special.
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Kishansar my second lake ;-) |
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Sexy 'Gatorade blue' Gadsar Lake |
The sexiest of the lot is no doubt Gadsar, a
radient 'Gatorade blue' as the boys called it, this one comes with the
mystique of interspersed frozen ice.
Twin-lakes of Nandkul and Gangbal, with ten points for clarity and another ten for shameless theft from my DSLR-carrying tent-mate Meghna. Special mention to your blog in recompense, my dear! Candid Photographer, Meghna Shirish.
Terrain/Rain/Snow, A typical day involves a few kilometers of steep ascent followed by a blissful length of plains or descents. Of course, the earlier days are more ascent-based and later days more descent-based. But one generally thinks of descents or plains as the blissful rewards of a torturous ascent. Your luck is generally connected to the absence of rains, and can decide whether you can or cannot complete this trek (I heard that groups have returned without completion).
The terrain is generally a great mix of hilly, rocky, snow-filled, watery, plains and super-fast descents all in sufficient quantities to give you a complete wild adventure experience. You may see different people excel at different terrains, so while one speeds across rocks, the same curses the snow.
Briefing Time + Dinner, Despite the fact that
briefing time was when my pulse raised to beat the dropping temperature and I
huddled in a corner with layers and layers of clothing/gloves/socks, hardly
saying a word, it somehow made to the list of top moments. Just that unique feeling of a group that
reached this far together, the complaints we had, the jokes cracked, the threat
of the oxymeter readings and associated hooting, the dinner, the surprise of
dessert, and the sleeping bag redistribution.
Trek Luxuries
- Soup served in the freezing
cold
- Rasna greeting you at camp after a day-long trek
- Sumptuous dinner with
dessert ranging from custard to gajar halwa to honey-filled cakes baked without
ovens
- Hillman sleeping bags with thermal inners designed for -10 degrees
- Luxury Tents
- Mules to carry tents, sleeping bags, gas cylinders and cooking utensils
- Offline offloading
- Physiotherapist trek leader Vivien for every embarrassing
physical problem
Homage to Forclaz Quechua 500/Which shoes to Buy
Here lies the Woodland shoes of Adarsh Chandrashekar, (July 11 - July 18, 2014), claimed prematurely by the final treacherous Zach-Nandkul 1400 ft descent, braving its final fall wrapped in gaudy shoelaces, rags and wild weeds. It will indeed be sorely missed by all (especially heartless Forclaz owners who were thanking their stars at this sight). May this martyr help in the decision making of all future IH trekkers to come.
Forclaz Symbium Access 70+10 (Rs 8999/-)
Ok, I offloaded, so I am not exactly entitled to talk about this bag. But I still know that this was the envy of the trekking crowd, (many even tried carrying it around), with its comfortable back padding, steel rods and brilliant ventilated back support (Arvind: "I can carry this all day, man!"). Its got a lovely movable pouch, which can be pulled and fixed over your chest, allowing you to retreive things without removing your backpack. Hope to give a better user review of this by my next trek. Forclaz Symbium Access 70+10
Tips and Tricks
Please note that my listing of these tips is no indication of how well I implemented them!
- Muddy Pant Problem (Courtesy: Revant): Roll up your soggy, besplattered pants once you reach camp into five or six folds (or more). This helps your pants to dry up quickly, and behold, dirt comes flaking off once it is dry. Give it an extra rub afterwards, and it is ready to be worn again (and again, and again.....yes....most likely all seven days)
- Muddy Pant Problem (Courtesy: Riyaz Bhai): Watch how the mountain folk walk. Supposedly, the distance between their legs while walking is larger than that of city folks, who have a tendency seemingly, to keep them closer, splashing mud on the other leg. Hence you can see all dirt accumulating on the inside of your leg, in some unique designer patterns!
- Headaches (Courtesy Vivian/Revant): The forehead needs to be covered at all times (caps/bandannas/monkey caps), especially in the cold, to prevent headaches. This rule was so strictly enforced, that we couldn't recognize one another without caps! Apart from Diamox when troubled with acclimatization, ORS is a huge huge must to prevent other forms of headaches.
- Acclimatization Alternatives: If you are on a Diamox course, great (except of course for the loose motions)!. If you are allergic to sulpha drugs like my tent mate, and develop sexy Penelope-style pouts, garlic is supposed to be a good substitute for Diamox! Breathing exercises in the open air also seemed to help my numbers. Anemia can also get you into trouble with acclimatization, supposedly (Oxygen, Haemoglobin, school-level biology, blah).
- Shades and Snow blindness: Shades are a must in snow to prevent snow blindness, caused when the sun reflects off the abundant snow.
- Wet Shoe Problem: Stuff old newspapers to dry the insides of your shoes.
- Follow the Shitty Trail: If you get lost, follow the shitty trail left by the mules!
- Walking on the Snow: Stomp. Ground your heels in first to avoid slipping. Stamping on mule shit left on the snow also gives a good grip :-).
- Walking on Rocks: Move quickly and fearlessly. Fear is what causes one to fall. If you are fast, and on a shaky rock, you are on the next one before you fall.
- Hiking poles: Avoid usage on plains or descents to save up on energy. On an ascent, poles should be in the hand that is on the mountain side, so that in the event of a fall, your pole provides additional support. Good Link from IH. How to use a Trekking Pole.
- Tent Ettiquette: Leave the tents closed at all times to prevent the chill from stealing in.
- Don't run down descents: You will hurt your knees.
- GPS/Google Maps: Google now has an offline mode where you can store maps and use GPS! I do hope someone tries this out on a KGL trek!
- Men, Sun screens and Lip Gloss: With all that ten kilo makeup kit sneering that I endured, I must note the great satisfaction i feel when I see men scrambling for Lip gloss or sun screen as layers of their skin peel off and heavy flaking sets in! Do reapply sunscreen at your lunch break (your morning application will not suffice).
- Snacking: Raisins, dried dates, glucose, ORS, chocolate. Ditch the rest. Nuts take a long time to digest and is not going to give you energy. So don't pack a ton like i did.
- Diarrhoea Tip (Very common in the mountains): Pack an extra roll of toilet paper, Baby Wipes and ORS!
- Rains & Bollywood Heroin Confused Identity Tip - If you have a tendency to take to flights of fancy when it drizzles, and need to go gallivanting in the rain (who does such things, really) with filmi music that only you can hear, please remember to CHANGE even your outermost clothing and socks, and also remember that drying may not be a common option with the sun absconding for days when Kashmir takes on her rainy avatar.
- Additional Body Training I would do next time: Tread mill training with rucksack with dumbbells on an incline, weights training at the gym for back strengthening.
- Compartmentalize your Rucksacks with Color coded bags - Living out of a rucksack can get really confusing.
- Packing mistakes I made:
- Too many clothes. Trek leads can survive on a single track pant!
- Packing half sleeves.
- Too many undergarments!
- Too much food.
- Too much stuff.